Provisional programme

International Commission for Research into European Food History (ICREFH)

16th International Congress

EATING ON THE MOVE (nineteenth to twenty-first centuries)

7-10 September 2021, Rome

Roma Tre University* (8, 9 September 2021), Via Silvio D’Amico, 77

Hotel Villa Benedetta* (7,10 September), Via della Moletta, 10

*Venues may be subject to variation due to the changing situation



Tuesday 7 September (Hotel Villa Benedetta, Conference room)

15:00Conference opening    
 Welcome speech by Sylvie Vabre, ICREFH President 
 Welcome speech by the organizers of the conference 
15:30-17:001st Session: Eating on the train  
 Jean-Pierre Williot (University of Paris Sorbonne, France)
 The Birth of the Railway Catering in 19th Century France 
 Maria Kapkan (Ural Federal University, Russia) 
 A taste of travel or a bite of home: eating on Soviet trains, 1960s – 1980s
17:30-18:15Open seminar    
 Food History on the Move: focus on the historical changes linked to the spread of railway system and to the economic post-war economic boom treated by Jean Pierre Williot (author of the book Mobilités alimentaires. Restaurations et consommations dans l’espace des chemins de fer en France, XIXe-XXIe siècle, Paris, éditions de la Sorbonne, 2021) and Francesco D’Ausilio (author of the book A tavola. Gli italiani e il cibo tra il 1945 e “i lunghi anni ’80, Rome, Palombi Editori, 2021). Discussants: Stefano Magagnoli and Peter Scholliers  (to be confirmed)
19:30Dinner at Villa Benedetta Hotel   

Wednesday 8 September (Roma Tre University, Department of Business Studies)

9:00-11:152ndsession – The troubled adventure of food during long and dangerous journeys
 Isabelle Bianquis (University of Tours F. Rabelais, France) 
 Cooking on the way to Antarctica   
 James Malin (New York University, USA)  
 Liftoff but Left out: Czech Gastrodiplomatic Suppression on USSR Spacecraft
 Rita d’Errico (Roma Tre University, Italy), Claudio Besana (Catholic University of the Sacred Heart, Milan, Italy), Daniela Bruni (Roma Tre University), Gabriele Rubini (Italian indipendent researcher).
 The food subsistence of migrants from Italy on the move to the Americas (19th-20th centuries) and from Africa to Italy through the Mediterranean routes (21st century).
11:45-13:003rd Session: The troubled adventure of food during long and dangerous journeys 2
 Ritva Kylli (University of Oulu, Finland)  
 Nourishment, Emotions, Identity – Food in Late 19th Century Nordic Polar Expeditions
 Caroline Favre (University of Paris 1 Panthéon Sorbonne, France) 
 Organisation, ingenuity and versatility: cooking for Alexander III on his official tour of the southwest regions of the Russian Empire of the southwest regions of the Russian Empire
13:00-14:00Light lunch     
14:00-14:45Biennial General Meeting – Organization of ICREFH 2023 Symposium     
15:00-17:004th Session: The multidimensional journey of food: in time and in art     
 Peter Scholliers (Vrije University Brussel, Belgium)
 Bread on the Move. The Diffusion of Bread Sorts in Western Europe in the Long 19th Century  
 Agata Stronciwilk (Jan Dlugosz University in Czestochowa, Poland)
 Migrating Tastes. Food, Politics and Identity in Contemporary Art
18:00Guided tours to Basilica of St. Paul and historic district of Garbatella     
20:00/20:30Roman typical dinner in Garbatella

Thursday 9 September (Roma Tre University, Department of Business Studies)

9:00-11:155th Session: Eating on the road   
 Gianpiero Fumi, Marco Marigliano (Catholic University of the Sacred Heart, Milan, Italy)
 A penny for your meal. The development of coin-operated food selling, with a focus on the Italian case
 David Bell, Theresa Moran (Ohio University, USA)
 What’s in your knapsack?: The food choices of North American and British day hikers, 1900-1990

Ilaria Suffia (Catholic University of the Sacred Heart, Milan), Valerio Varini (Bicocca University, Milan, Italy)

Travelling gastronomy. The Michelin Guides and the selection of taste.

11:15-13:306th session: Food as salvation and memory through the eyes of the Italians in the 1940s-50s
 Giuseppe Stemperini, Keti Lelo (Roma Tre University, Italy) 
 Food and the Allied Forces in Italy: 1943-1947  
 Alessandro Albanese Ginammi (ISEM-CNR, Italy) 
 Memories and recipes from Italians in Libya in the 1950s 
13:30-15:00Light lunch     
15:00-17:307th Session: Eating on the road 2   
 Sylvie Vabre (University of Toulouse – Jean Jaurès, France) 
 From the cyclist’s lunch to a full meal   
 Stefano Magagnoli (University of Parma, Italy), Daniela Adorni (University of Turin, Italy)
 Eating on the road in the Italian economic boom. The Picnic between tradition and innovation
 Andrea Locatelli, Nicola Martinelli (Catholic University of the Sacred Heart, Milan, Italy)   

Eating at the “Hotel Posta”: the case of the central Italian Alps during the 19th and 20th Centuries

18:30Jewish Ghetto of Rome guided tour  
20:00/20:30Dinner in the city center   

Friday 10 September (Hotel Villa Benedetta)

9:30-12:008th Session: “Travelling”, imagining, and representing through food
 Martin Franc (Czech Academy of Sciences, Czech Republic) 
 Queuing for “Chinese”. Representative Foreign Restaurants in Prague in the 1950s–1980s as a Form of Travelling at Home
 Catherine Salzman (Netherlands independent researcher) 
 Food travels through recipes   
 Francesco D’Ausilio (Vrije University Brussel, Belgium) 
 Exotic cuisine in «the long eighties»: culinary magazine narratives in the US and UK
12:30Light lunch at Villa Benedetta hotel   
15:00-18:00Guided tour to Ostia antica (at least 10 participants) 
The guided tours, lunch and dinners are courtesy of the organizers

Participants who have paid the “Standard fee”, which includes 3 nights accommodation in days 7, 8 and 9 September, will be housed in the hotel Villa Benedetta located in Via Moletta, 10 – Rome ( All extra costs and the tourist tax of € 3.5 per day/per person are borne by the participants. The tourist tax has to be paid at the hotel on the day of check out.

Directions on how to reach the hotel from the airport or railway station will be provided shortly.