Conference Programme

International Commission for Research into European Food History (ICREFH)

16th International Congress

EATING ON THE MOVE (nineteenth to twenty-first centuries)

7-10 September 2021, Rome

Roma Tre University (8, 9 September 2021), Via Silvio D’Amico, 77

Hotel Villa Benedetta (7,10 September), Via della Moletta, 10

 

 

 

Tuesday 7 September (Hotel Villa Benedetta, Conference room)

15:00Conference opening    
 Welcome speech by Sylvie Vabre – University of Toulouse Jean Jaurès, ICREFH President (France) 
 

Welcome speech by the organizers of the conference

Introductory speech by Peter Scholliers – Vrije University Brussel (Belgium)

 
15:30-17:00

1st Session: Food as salvation and memory through the eyes of the Italians in the 1940s-50s – Chair: Gianpiero Fumi – Catholic University of the Sacred Heart, Milan (Italy)

  
 
Keti Lelo, Giuseppe Stemperini – Roma Tre University (Italy)
 Food and the Allied Forces in Italy: 1943-1947 
 
Alessandro Albanese Ginammi – ISEM, CNR (Italy)
 
 Memories and Recipes from Italians in Libya in the 1950s 
 Discussion    
17:00-17:30Break     
17:30-18:30Biennial General Meeting – Organization of ICREFH 2023 Symposium    
 

 

19:30Dinner at Villa Benedetta Hotel   
       
 

Wednesday 8 September (Roma Tre University, Department of Business Studies – Sala delle Lauree)

9:00-11:302ndSession – The troubled adventure of food during long and dangerous journeys – Chair: Sylvie Vabre – University of Toulouse Jean Jaurès (France)
 Isabelle Bianquis – University of Tours F. Rabelais (France) 
 Cooking on the Way to Antarctica   
 James Eduard Malin – New York University (US)  
 Liftoff but Left out: Czech Gastrodiplomatic Suppression on USSR Spacecraft
 

Rita d’Errico – Roma Tre University, Claudio Besana – Catholic University of the Sacred Heart, Milan, Gabriele Rubini, Daniela Bruni – Italian indipendent researchers (Italy)

 The Food of Migrant People on the Move from Italy to the Americas (19th-20th Centuries) and from Africa to Italy across the Mediterranean (21stCentury)
 Discussion    
11:30-11:50Break     
11:50-13:20

3rd Session: The troubled adventure of food during long and dangerous journeys (part 2) – Chair: Stefano Magagnoli – University of Parma, Daniela Adorni – University of Turin (Italy)

 Ritva Kylli – University of Oulu (Finland)  
 Nourishment, Emotions, Identity – Food in Late 19th Century Nordic Polar Expeditions
 
Caroline Favre – University of Paris 1 Panthéon Sorbonne (France)
 
 

Organisation, Ingenuity and Versatility: Cooking for Alexander III on his Official Tour of the Southwest Regions of the Russian Empire 

 Discussion  
13:20-14:30Light lunch     
14:30-15:15

Open seminar

Food History on the Move: focus on the historical changes linked to the spread of railway system and to the economic post-war economic boom treated by Jean Pierre Williot (author of the book Mobilités alimentaires. Restaurations et consommations dans l’espace des chemins de fer en France, XIXe-XXIe siècle, Paris, éditions de la Sorbonne, 2021) and Francesco D’Ausilio (author of the book A tavola. Gli italiani e il cibo tra il 1945 e “i lunghi anni ’80”, Rome, Palombi Editori, 2021). Discussants: Stefano Magagnoli – University of Parma (Italy), Peter Scholliers – Vrije University Brussel (Belgium)

     
15:15-15:30Break
15:30-17:00

4th Session: The multidimensional journey of food: in time and in art – Chair: Sylvie Vabre – University of Toulouse – Jean Jaurès (France)

     
 Peter Scholliers – Vrije University Brussel (Belgium)
 Food Names on The Move: Pain de Gonesse in Europe  
 Agata Stronciwilk – Jan Dlugosz University in Czestochowa (Poland)
 Migrating Tastes. Food, Politics and Identity in Contemporary Art
 Discussion 
18:00Guided tours to Basilica of St. Paul and historic district of Garbatella     
20:00/20:30Dinner in Garbatella
     
 

Thursday 9 September (Roma Tre University, Department of Business Studies – Sala delle Lauree)

     
9:00-11:30

5th Session: Eating on the road – Chair: Carlo M. Travaglini – Roma Tre University (Italy)

 Gianpiero Fumi – Catholic University of the Sacred Heart, Milan (Italy)   
 A Penny for Your Meal. The Development of Coin-operated Food Selling, with a Focus on the Italian Case
 David Bell, Theresa Moran – Ohio University (US)
 What’s in your knapsack?: The food choices of North American and British day hikers, 1900-1990
 Ilaria Suffia – Catholic University of the Sacred Heart, Milan, Valerio Varini – Bicocca University, Milan (Italy)
 

Travelling Gastronomy. The Michelin Guides and the Selection of Taste.

11:30-12:00Break     
12:00-13:30

6th Session: Eating on the train – Chair: Rita d’Errico – Roma Tre University (Italy)

 

Jean-Pierre Williot – University of Paris Sorbonne (France)

 
 The Birth of the Railway Catering in 19th Century France   
 Maria Kapkan – Ural Federal University (Russia) 
 A Taste of Travel or a Bite of Home: Eating on Soviet Trains, 1960s – 1980s 
 Discussion     
13:30-15:00Light lunch     
15:00-17:30

7th Session: Eating on the road (part 2) – Chair: Isabelle Bianquis – University of Tours F. Rabelais (France)

   
 Sylvie Vabre – University of Toulouse – Jean Jaurès (France) 
 “Ready-made” Cuisine Raynal & Roquelaure – Capdenac – France   
 Stefano Magagnoli – University of Parma, Daniela Adorni – University of Turin (Italy)
 Eating on the Road in the Italian Economic Boom. The Picnic Between Tradition and Innovation
 Andrea Locatelli, Nicola Martinelli – Catholic University of the Sacred Heart, Milan (Italy)   
 

Eating at the “Hotel Posta”: the Case of the Central Italian Alps during the 19th and 20th Centuries

 Discussion     
18:30Jewish Ghetto of Rome guided tour  
20:00/20:30Dinner in the city center   
       
 

Friday 10 September (Hotel Villa Benedetta)

  
9:30-12:00

8th Session: “Travelling”, imagining, and representing through food – Chair: Maria Kapkan – Ural Federal University (Russia)

 Martin Franc – Czech Academy of Sciences (Czech Republic) 
 Queuing for “Chinese”. Representative Foreign Restaurants in Prague in the 1950s–1980s as a Form of Travelling at Home
 Catherine Salzman – Independent researcher (Netherlands) 
 Recipes travel   
 Francesco D’Ausilio – Vrije University Brussel (Belgium) 
 Exotic Cuisine in «The Long Eighties»: Culinary Magazine Narratives in the US and UK
 Discussion     
12:30Light lunch at Villa Benedetta hotel   
15:00-18:00Guided tour to Ostia antica (at least 10 participants)