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Conference Programme

International Commission for Research into European Food History (ICREFH)

16th International Congress

EATING ON THE MOVE (nineteenth to twenty-first centuries)

7-10 September 2021, Rome

Roma Tre University (8, 9 September 2021), Via Silvio D’Amico, 77

Hotel Villa Benedetta (7,10 September), Via della Moletta, 10

 

 

 

Tuesday 7 September (Hotel Villa Benedetta, Conference room)

15:00 Conference opening        
  Welcome speech by Sylvie Vabre – University of Toulouse Jean Jaurès, ICREFH President (France)  
 

Welcome speech by the organizers of the conference

Introductory speech by Peter Scholliers – Vrije University Brussel (Belgium)

 
15:30-17:00

1st Session: Food as salvation and memory through the eyes of the Italians in the 1940s-50s – Chair: Gianpiero Fumi – Catholic University of the Sacred Heart, Milan (Italy)

   
 
Keti Lelo, Giuseppe Stemperini – Roma Tre University (Italy)
  Food and the Allied Forces in Italy: 1943-1947  
 
Alessandro Albanese Ginammi – ISEM, CNR (Italy)
 
  Memories and Recipes from Italians in Libya in the 1950s 
  Discussion        
17:00-17:30 Break          
17:30-18:30 Biennial General Meeting – Organization of ICREFH 2023 Symposium        
 

 

19:30 Dinner at Villa Benedetta Hotel      
             
 

Wednesday 8 September (Roma Tre University, Department of Business Studies – Sala delle Lauree)

9:00-11:30 2ndSession – The troubled adventure of food during long and dangerous journeys – Chair: Sylvie Vabre – University of Toulouse Jean Jaurès (France)
  Isabelle Bianquis – University of Tours F. Rabelais (France)  
  Cooking on the Way to Antarctica      
  James Eduard Malin – New York University (US)    
  Liftoff but Left out: Czech Gastrodiplomatic Suppression on USSR Spacecraft
 

Rita d’Errico – Roma Tre University, Claudio Besana – Catholic University of the Sacred Heart, Milan, Gabriele Rubini, Daniela Bruni – Italian indipendent researchers (Italy)

  The Food of Migrant People on the Move from Italy to the Americas (19th-20th Centuries) and from Africa to Italy across the Mediterranean (21stCentury)
  Discussion        
11:30-11:50 Break          
11:50-13:20

3rd Session: The troubled adventure of food during long and dangerous journeys (part 2) – Chair: Stefano Magagnoli – University of Parma, Daniela Adorni – University of Turin (Italy)

  Ritva Kylli – University of Oulu (Finland)    
  Nourishment, Emotions, Identity – Food in Late 19th Century Nordic Polar Expeditions
 
Caroline Favre – University of Paris 1 Panthéon Sorbonne (France)
 
 

Organisation, Ingenuity and Versatility: Cooking for Alexander III on his Official Tour of the Southwest Regions of the Russian Empire 

  Discussion    
13:20-14:30 Light lunch          
14:30-15:15

Open seminar

Food History on the Move: focus on the historical changes linked to the spread of railway system and to the economic post-war economic boom treated by Jean Pierre Williot (author of the book Mobilités alimentaires. Restaurations et consommations dans l’espace des chemins de fer en France, XIXe-XXIe siècle, Paris, éditions de la Sorbonne, 2021) and Francesco D’Ausilio (author of the book A tavola. Gli italiani e il cibo tra il 1945 e “i lunghi anni ’80”, Rome, Palombi Editori, 2021). Discussants: Stefano Magagnoli – University of Parma (Italy), Peter Scholliers – Vrije University Brussel (Belgium)

         
15:15-15:30 Break
15:30-17:00

4th Session: The multidimensional journey of food: in time and in art – Chair: Sylvie Vabre – University of Toulouse – Jean Jaurès (France)

         
  Peter Scholliers – Vrije University Brussel (Belgium)
  Food Names on The Move: Pain de Gonesse in Europe    
  Agata Stronciwilk – Jan Dlugosz University in Czestochowa (Poland)
  Migrating Tastes. Food, Politics and Identity in Contemporary Art
  Discussion  
18:00 Guided tours to Basilica of St. Paul and historic district of Garbatella          
20:00/20:30 Dinner in Garbatella
         
 

Thursday 9 September (Roma Tre University, Department of Business Studies – Sala delle Lauree)

         
9:00-11:30

5th Session: Eating on the road – Chair: Carlo M. Travaglini – Roma Tre University (Italy)

  Gianpiero Fumi – Catholic University of the Sacred Heart, Milan (Italy)      
  A Penny for Your Meal. The Development of Coin-operated Food Selling, with a Focus on the Italian Case
  David Bell, Theresa Moran – Ohio University (US)
  What’s in your knapsack?: The food choices of North American and British day hikers, 1900-1990
  Ilaria Suffia – Catholic University of the Sacred Heart, Milan, Valerio Varini – Bicocca University, Milan (Italy)
 

Travelling Gastronomy. The Michelin Guides and the Selection of Taste.

11:30-12:00 Break          
12:00-13:30

6th Session: Eating on the train – Chair: Rita d’Errico – Roma Tre University (Italy)

 

Jean-Pierre Williot – University of Paris Sorbonne (France)

 
  The Birth of the Railway Catering in 19th Century France     
  Maria Kapkan – Ural Federal University (Russia)  
  A Taste of Travel or a Bite of Home: Eating on Soviet Trains, 1960s – 1980s  
  Discussion          
13:30-15:00 Light lunch          
15:00-17:30

7th Session: Eating on the road (part 2) – Chair: Isabelle Bianquis – University of Tours F. Rabelais (France)

     
  Sylvie Vabre – University of Toulouse – Jean Jaurès (France)  
  “Ready-made” Cuisine Raynal & Roquelaure – Capdenac – France      
  Stefano Magagnoli – University of Parma, Daniela Adorni – University of Turin (Italy)
  Eating on the Road in the Italian Economic Boom. The Picnic Between Tradition and Innovation
  Andrea Locatelli, Nicola Martinelli – Catholic University of the Sacred Heart, Milan (Italy)      
 

Eating at the “Hotel Posta”: the Case of the Central Italian Alps during the 19th and 20th Centuries

  Discussion          
18:30 Jewish Ghetto of Rome guided tour    
20:00/20:30 Dinner in the city center      
             
 

Friday 10 September (Hotel Villa Benedetta)

   
9:30-12:00

8th Session: “Travelling”, imagining, and representing through food – Chair: Maria Kapkan – Ural Federal University (Russia)

  Martin Franc – Czech Academy of Sciences (Czech Republic)  
  Queuing for “Chinese”. Representative Foreign Restaurants in Prague in the 1950s–1980s as a Form of Travelling at Home
  Catherine Salzman – Independent researcher (Netherlands)  
  Recipes travel      
  Francesco D’Ausilio – Vrije University Brussel (Belgium)  
  Exotic Cuisine in «The Long Eighties»: Culinary Magazine Narratives in the US and UK
  Discussion          
12:30 Light lunch at Villa Benedetta hotel      
15:00-18:00 Guided tour to Ostia antica (at least 10 participants)